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Types Of Enamel In Jewelry

Posted on Sep 08, '14

Enamel in jewelry has existed for thousands of years. Essentially colored glass, powdered and applied most often to a metal base, it is fired at sufficient temperatures to melt and form decorative surfaces. There are many types of enames and we have chosen five types to illustrate.

Guilloche (Basse Taille)

Transparent or translucent enamel is placed over metal that has often been enhanced with a pattern. The technique is commonly named "engine turned" for the machine which impresses tiny intricate designs into the metal base. 

Champleve

Channels are carved out of metal to make a well which is then filled with enamel. The partitions are part of the base and not applied on the surface. 

En Plein

Large surfaces are decorated with enamel usually forming portraits. Famed Carl Faberge used this technique for many of his pieces mostly in solid colors.

Plique-a-jour

Delicate enamel is laid between metal but the backing has been removed. Light can then pass through the enamel almost like stained glass.

Taille D'epargne

Shallow grooves are hollowed out of the metal and filled often with black enamel. Frequently used in the Victorian era particularly in America, it is similar to champlevé enamel but shallower and often smaller cavities. The locket above is also an example of en plein enamel for the portrait.