Scarce Early Enameled Giardinetti Ring
The Three Graces loves to present jewels which exceed expectations. This particular treasure is an exceptionally scarce early 18th century ring. Rendered in the manner of the giardinetti type, silver and 22k or higher yellow gold join to make this rare ring. Giardinetti translates to the word garden from Italian and refers to a form of 18th century ring.
This ring represents a small vase with a trio of budding flowers. The body of the vase is a natural ruby set in a rub over bezel of yellow gold. Rose cut diamonds take the role of flower buds surrounding the shaped vase. A table cut diamond makes up the base. A love knot of open work gold is embellished with polychromatic enameling of deep green teal, white and black.
In addition, both the shank and underside of the top cluster are adorned with enamel. The shank itself is exceptional with double strands of interwoven gold at the back – we have never seen this feature before in a ring.
Date: Circa 1720.
Note: Due to its great age, this ring is not ideal for everyday wear but fine for occasional use.
Measurements: Length and width of top vase and flowers just shy of ½ of an inch (1.2 cm) and rise up 3/8 of an inch (0.5 cm) off the finger. Weight of 2.5 grams (1.6 dwt).
Ring Size: US 5-1/4 (UK K; Euro or Int. Circum. 49.9 mm; Int. Dia. 15.9 mm; Japan over 9). This ring should not be sized. Contact us for more information.
Condition: Excellent for its age and type; all gemstones original and not removed; some enamel remaining to underside and to shank; a few minor scratches and facet wear to ruby visible with magnification.
Origin: Most likely English.
Historical Notes: From the Renaissance through the 17th century enameling was one of the main techniques for the decoration of jewelry. It was far more important than the use of diamonds and gems which were very rare. Quite often the back, front and underside of jewels were covered in various designs and colors of enamel. A few small gemstones and diamonds may have been added but the focus for rings was enamel covering the underside of the top and all outer surfaces. The area into which the finger went was left unadorned metal, as the enamel would wear away. As the 17th century waned and the 18th century dawned, most enameling was relegated to the tops and fronts of jewelry with the backs no longer enameled. Gemstones then took over and enameling was rarely used until the 1790s with the exception of black enamel for memento mori jewelry.
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