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Rare Antique Demantoid Diamond Ring

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The gem demantoid (pronounced dih-MAN-toid) often goes unrecognized. Rare as the stone is no longer mined and those over 1 carat are exceptionally scarce. When all factors are equal, the secret to gemstones and their value is color. Better color, richer and more vivid hues correlate with a more valuable gem. The three (3) demantoids in this turn of the century example are bright grass green – the color most desired in this type of gem. Clear and fine, there is no muddiness at all. Its high refractive index (only diamonds are higher) gives it a great dispersion and high luster and a brilliance that rivals that of diamonds.

A traditional Edwardian five stone ring in 18k yellow gold gives credence to the statement of the brilliance of the gorgeous demantoid garnet in comparison to the diamond. Three (3) faceted demantoids, two (2) old European cut diamonds and eight (8) small rose cut diamonds embellish the period ring. The central demantoid is approximately .50 carats and has that coveted horsetail feather* characteristic which everyone loves. The side demantoids has an estimated weight of .20 carats each which brings the total demantoid weight of the ring to about .90 carats. In all, the ten (10) diamonds have an estimated total diamond weight of .75 carats. The pierced gold gallery has nicely detailed scroll designs.

Date: Circa 1900.

*A horsetail feather is a brown crystal inclusion of radiating needles that emanates outwardly from the center of the demantoid garnet. This inclusion is a prized characteristic which sets apart the Russian demantoid garnet from its brethren.

+ Measurements, Condition & More

Measurements: Gem area is 3/4 inches (1.9 cm) in length by ¼ of an inch (0.6 cm) at the widest. Weight of 5.2 grams (3.3 dwt).

Ring Size: US 7 3/4 (UK P 1/2; Int. Dia. 18; 56.5 mm; Japan under a 16) and easily can be sized to fit most. Ring sizing information.

Hallmarks: “18ct”.

Condition: Excellent; main stone has an inclusion with breaks through to the surface visible with magnification.

Origin: Demantoids are Russian; mount is English.

Note: Stones have not been removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting. All diamond and gemstone weights have been approximated by measurement and formula and may vary from actual weights.

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