Breathtaking Antique Enamel Pendant Locket
Fantasies of those incomparable eggs from the workshop of Fabergé come to mind upon viewing this turn-of-the 20th century pendant. Although not a work by the Maestro or even an attempt at replication, this guilloché enamel egg shaped locket is a superb jewel unto itself. The term “guilloché” is frequently misused when used to specify a specific type of enameling. It is, in effect the process of engraving a pattern or decoration onto a metal surface which is then covered with translucent enamel.
The striking vivid turquoise blue enamel with the mesmerizing undulating line pattern sets this (enamel over) silver and 14k yellow gold egg locket apart from typical pendants of the time. Perfectly proportioned and superbly constructed, the locket is bifurcated with what appears to be a band of 14k yellow gold set with thirty-seven (37) tiny faceted round rubies. In actuality the gold band is comprised of two parts which border the perimeters of each section of the locket. The upper element is hand engraved with a vine and leaf pattern along its surface; the ruby-set border appoints the lower half.
At the apex is a 14k yellow gold bale upon a silver floral form cap set with five (5) tiny rose cut diamonds. The bale can be turned 360 degrees in rotation which allows ease in wear. The lower element is embellished with a rose cut diamond set within a silver bezel. Opening the hinged locket reveals a deep turquoise blue enamel surface smooth as silk.
Date: Circa 1900.
Measurements: 1-3/4 inches (4.5 cm) in length including bale and 1-1/2 inches (3.7 cm) without by 1 inch (2.5 cm) at the widest. Weight of 16.8 grams (10.8 dwt).
Condition: Excellent; one ruby with a minute chip.
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