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Edwardian Essence in a Diamond Pearl Sautoir

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One of the more favored pieces of Edwardian jewelry was the sautoir. Typically longer than an opera length necklace, the sautoir usually concluded with a pendant or tassel.

In a sense, the style we refer to as Edwardian is captured in this exquisite jewel. Delicate natural seed pearls have been woven into a rope of latticework. A removable bar fitting (see photos) of silver over 18k rose gold, superbly rendered in a diamond-encrusted garland style with tiny leaves enables the elegant necklace to be worn in several configurations.

The pearl ladders are joined by three diamond studded clasps in the naturalistic manner of the 18th century. Tassels of petite natural seed pearls suspend from crown-like open work caps of silver over rose gold dotted with additional diamonds.

In all, the jewel is ornamented with two hundred seventy-six (276) diminutive rose cut diamonds, thirteen (13) larger old mine cut diamonds and more than two thousand (2000) seed pearls guaranteed to be natural. Meticulous detail, labor-intensive craftsmanship and glorious materials combine in the creation of a literal work of wearable art.

Accompanied by the original taupe tooled leather fitted case with interior of pale moss green velvet and cream silk embossed with “Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co, Ltd, 112 Regent St, London, W. By Appointment to H.M. The King”.

Date: Circa 1900.

+ Measurements, Condition & More

Measurements: 30-3/4 inches (78 cm) in total length by 3/8 of an inch (1 cm) at the widest. Clip is 7/8 of an inch (2.3 cm) in width by 3/16 of an inch (0.5 cm) in length. Tassel area from top diamond to end of pearls is 2-9/16 inches (6.4 cm) in length. Weight of 26.8 grams (17.2 dwt).

Condition: Excellent; one pearl tassel has 8 strands; other has 7. Box is very fine with light staining to interior with scuffs and light wear to the exterior.

Origin: English.

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