Antique Victorian Night Day Turquoise & Diamond Earrings

These late Victorian jewels represent a superb example of the rare combination of day night earrings gem-set with diamonds and turquoise. Fashionable earrings of this period often had naturalism as a basis for design inspiration.

Suspended from a flowerhead cluster surmount (of twelve calibré-cut rounded, natural Persian turquoise stones with a centered pearl) is the diamond, turquoise and pearl encrusted pendant drop. Each drop is set with thirty (30) rose cut diamonds (ranging in size from .01 to .03 carats apiece) and twenty-three graduated scallops of turquoise surrounding a seashell motif cradling yet another pearl.

Atop the pendant rests a floral motif of what may be blooms of a fuschia plant studded in diamonds. From the pendant dangles a single baroque shaped natural pearl (untested). As typical for the time, the pendants are closed back and set with silver-topped 15k yellow gold.

Condition: Very good to excellent; several pearls may be later replacements as there is evidence of glue near a few of the pearls and they appear cultured.

Measurements: 1-7/8 inches (4.7 cm) in length by 11/16 of an inch (1.7 cm) at the widest. The top mounts are 5/16 of an inch (0.8 cm) in diameter. This pair of antique earrings has a weight of 10.5 grams (6.8 dwt).

Date: Circa 1870

Historical Note: Although turquoise had been used in jewelry for ages, it was in the 1870s that it began to be cut en calibré in order to fit these patterned, shaped designs. Please refer to page 124 of “Earrings from Antiquity to the Present” by Mascetti & Triossi for an example of a calibré cut turquoise set of earrings and brooch.

Note: All diamond weights are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.