Riker Bros. Amethyst Pearl Edwardian Brooch
From the hallowed halls of the Riker Brothers, one of the most sought after and highly collectible American designers and jewelry manufacturers we present this example of the impact of neoclassical design on Edwardian jewelry. Pearls and amethysts were very much in vogue during this highlight era of the history of jewelry.
Jewelry was symmetrical in form and design inspired by 18th and 19th century neoclassical sensibilities. Curves were in with delicacy and femininity catchwords of the time. American manufacturers such as the Riker Brothers were able to bring forth luxurious pieces of then contemporary jewelry styles at reasonable price points accessible to the public.
Here we see the clever use of a substantial piece of amethyst cut into a fancy shape as the centerpiece of a brooch. The faceted amethyst of an estimated 7.5 carats appears almost to float within an open work frame. We can see how the 14k white gold garland punctuated by a centered cultured pearl forms an arch. Please note the ends delicately draped over a 14k yellow gold frame embellished with Greek ornamental forms of gold inset with white enamel. A triumvirate of cultured pearls balances the symmetry of the overall design with linear elements.
Date: Circa 1915.
Measurements: 1-1/4 inches (3.1 cm) in length by 7/8 of an inch (1.9 cm) in width. Weight of 7.0 grams (4.5 dwt).
Hallmarks: 14k; Riker mark.
Note: Gemstone weight is approximated by measurement and formula and may vary from actual if removed. All metals are acid tested.
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