Eras of jewelry often had themes and motifs that were favored during these time periods.
For most of the eighteenth century (up until about 1790) many motifs, such as feathers, floral sprays, and bows dominated jewelry design in western Europe.
With this piece, the incorporation of the feather, floral theme and a bow were all employed to quintessential perfection. Typical of mid to earlier 18th century designs, this jewel is asymmetrical in orientation.
Formerly an aigrette for the hair, this glorious conversion to a grand brooch is encrusted with flat cut almandine diamonds mounted into gilt silver.
The flower blossom is fixed "en tremblant" on wire and moves and trembles as you do.
In addition is the characteristic heavy solid construction, albeit with a lyrical and open design, the settings for the garnets are also typical.
With 167 flat cut garnets placed in closed back setting, their foiling beneath imparts the gemstones with astounding pink purple coloration and fire. Remarkable, all appear original and just a few of the most diminutive, and one other must appear to the eye as vibrant as they did over 250 years ago!