Breathtaking in every aspect, this rare antique French Holbeinesque style Renaissance revival jewel ranks among the finest. Worthy of any museum collection, yet equally suited to adorn a captivating outfit, it dates to circa 1860-70.
Only the French imparted this flair and singular craftsmanship along with sensitive design.
Rhodolite garnets, antique cut diamonds, 18k yellow gold, all certainly result in the sum of more than their parts. Hues of purple with highlights of ebullient pink and grape red emanate from these gem quality garnets. Every movement awakens their inner glow. The four cardinal points of the central cabochon are studded with gold work encrusted with diamonds.
Even carved into the outer garnet ring are four tiny diamonds set into gold. Note that in the oval surround of small diamonds, each is specifically shaped in a triangular rose cut.
Twenty-four in all were certainly polished just for this design for we have never encountered this type of three-pointed triangular rose cuts utilized over and over in such a deliberate manner. Usually rose cuts are closer to oval or off round.
Beneath are a removable two-part articulated fitting. At the bottom, a vivacious pear cut diamond of .35 carats is held within a gallery of gold.
The reverse reveals a glass covered locket compartment. All the construction is a marvel of quality and ingenuity. The Three Graces has offered several English examples of a Holbeinesque pendant in the last 18 plus years, never one from France.
Central garnet of 7 carats
Eighty-nine antique diamonds
One pear, rose and old mine cuts
Pear of .30 carats
Remainder .10 carats to .01 carats
Total weight of 2.03 carats
Color H-J, clarity VS2-SI2
18k rose and yellow gold
Historical Note: Holbeinesque refers to a style of jewelry harkening back to the 16th century. Hans Holbein the Younger, a famed German painter and printmaker, was known for his realistic and precise portrait paintings. His near priceless works today hang in the finest museum in the world.
Often, they portray sitters wearing pendants hanging from long chains. These usually take the form of central oval or roughly circular element, often set with a large central cabochon and surround, and with various suspended pearls, gold, or gems.
Hans Holbein the Younger even sketched many of these notable pieces of jewelry. During the mid-19th century, many of the most respected jewelers of the day including Castellani and Wièse, revived these designs as well as many other forms of the Gothic, Tudor, Renaissance, and classical ancient civilizations.
Chain is sold separately, ask about our selection.