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Here the buckle design is interpreted retro style but in an atypical fashion. This period was influenced by the impact that World War II had on economics. Colored gold was in fashion as platinum had been usurped by the war effort. The military look was everywhere and the geometry of tank treads easily transitioned to bracelets and rings.
This circa 1945 ring of 10k yellow gold uses a brickwork woven mesh tread design. Flexible and comfortable on the finger, the buckle is that of a gem set flower — five (5) round faceted rubies of .17 carats each for a total weight of .85 carats set around an old European cut diamond of .05 carats.
The hasp is channel set with two (2) square cut rubies of a total of .04 carats, two (2) old European cut diamonds of a total of .04 carats and two (2) square cut sapphires each .02 carats (total of .04 carats).
The shank of the ring is adjustable. To the reverse is a series of tiny holes which line up to a small post located under the hinged hasp which then is closed and secured with a safety clasp.
In all, two (2) sapphires of a total .04 carats, three (3) old European cut diamond with a total weight of .09 carats (I-J color; SI1-2 clarity) and seven (7) rubies of a total .89 carats bring a spot of vibrant color and glamour to a retro ring.
Historical Notes: The buckle ring is thought to have originated as a variation of the medieval emblem of The Most Noble Order of the Garter. Founded in the mid-1300s by King Edward III, this was one of England’s most prestigious honors for chivalry. Viewed as a symbol of strength and protection, during the Victorian Era, the motif shifted into representing loyalty, love or friendship between two individuals.