Invisible gemstone settings are among the most difficult mountings to make. Thought to have initially been developed in France around 1850, grooves are cut into the girdle (the widest part) which is then slid or snapped into a metal framework located below the surface.
This ultimately gives the appearance of a continuous and uninterrupted look which creates more brilliance. The famous French jewelry house of Van Cleef & Arpels took up the gauntlet in 1933 and patented their invisible setting called “The Mystery Setting”.
This pair of spectacular pave set 18k white gold earrings emulates the incredible craftsmanship which is required to place a gem in an invisible setting.
Employing a flower motif, one of the pair sports one hundred eighty (180) sapphires and the other one hundred eighty-six (186) sapphires with a total weight of 52.58 carats set side by side. The overlapping petals are created in such a manner as to form a convex or rounded curve to the profile.
The majority of the blazing blue sapphires are rectangular and square princess cut with the remainder calibre cut. All are invisibly set and exhibit very fine color and clarity.
A diamond center, also in the configuration of a blossom is composed of seven (7) round brilliant diamonds with fourteen (14) for the pair of a total weight of 2.51 carats (G-H color; VS clarity).
The reverse reveals the intricate and finely constructed 18k white gold scaffolding infrastructure of the setting complete with flip up and down post and omega clip back fittings.