Story

Founded in 1849, Hancocks continues to be one of the premier jewelers of London. With a reputation for creating ravishing Holbeinesque jewelry, this garnet and enamel pendant adds to that already impressive jewelry archive.

Although characterized by the typical ornamentation expected of a pendant rendered in the manner of Holbein, the use of a garnet carbuncle is quite unusual as this stone was traditionally employed in the 18th and early 19th century and then fell from favor.

The oval garnet cabochon is quite large – 17 mm by 14 mm – and mounted with oval gold bezel embellished with a double row of the ubiquitous quatrefoil design in red and cobalt blue champlevé enamel. The centered gem is surrounded with a border of polychrome enamel work in red, green, cobalt blue and sienna six petal flowerheads interspersed with six square set chrysoberyl jewels.

An enamel fitting suspends a lozenge shaped drop of 4 square cut chrysoberyls. The drop is accented with a trefoil design of three golden orbs. The reverse is elaborately hand engraved with Tudor rose motifs and scrolls surrounding an oval glass hair locket compartment.

Magnificent.

Item 12384

Hancocks of London Holbeinesque Garnet Pendant

Only One Available

SOLD
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Story

Founded in 1849, Hancocks continues to be one of the premier jewelers of London. With a reputation for creating ravishing Holbeinesque jewelry, this garnet and enamel pendant adds to that already impressive jewelry archive.

Although characterized by the typical ornamentation expected of a pendant rendered in the manner of Holbein, the use of a garnet carbuncle is quite unusual as this stone was traditionally employed in the 18th and early 19th century and then fell from favor.

The oval garnet cabochon is quite large – 17 mm by 14 mm – and mounted with oval gold bezel embellished with a double row of the ubiquitous quatrefoil design in red and cobalt blue champlevé enamel. The centered gem is surrounded with a border of polychrome enamel work in red, green, cobalt blue and sienna six petal flowerheads interspersed with six square set chrysoberyl jewels.

An enamel fitting suspends a lozenge shaped drop of 4 square cut chrysoberyls. The drop is accented with a trefoil design of three golden orbs. The reverse is elaborately hand engraved with Tudor rose motifs and scrolls surrounding an oval glass hair locket compartment.

Magnificent.

Measurements: 2-5/8 inches (6.9 cm) in length by 1-1/4 inches (by 2.9 cm) in width. Weight of 17.7 grams (10.4 dwt).

Condition: Excellent; one small area of enamel loss on the top loop of bottom drop.

Date & Origin: Circa 1870 – 1880 and is English in origin.

Note: For very similar examples, please refer to page 52 of “The Master Jewelers” by A. Kenneth Snowman.