When buying an estate jewelry, antique, or even a vintage engagement ring, there are a few options in antique diamonds. Many of us are not familiar with what those diamond really look like and their differences.
First, a definition for a couple of terms used for diamond cuts.
Facet
This is one small planar surface out of many on a diamond. Many facets make up the entire diamond surface and how many facets there are, and in what arrangement make up different diamond cuts. When a diamond cutter cuts a raw diamond, it is also said they are faceting the diamond, or polishing the diamond to its final form.
One Facet (In Purple)
Culet
Thee bottom point of a diamond. Many diamonds come to a point at the bottom and the place where those facets come together to form the bottom tip is called the culet.
Open Culet
In modern diamonds, the culet is the place that all facets come together in a tiny point. In many antique diamonds and diamond rings, there is a tiny flat planar surface. Looking through the top of the diamond, one can see what almost appears like a little hole. It is not a hole at all, but just a another facet.
Open Culet in an Old European Diamond
Table
The top plane of the diamond, the flat top area of a diamond.
Table of Old European Cut Diamond
There are three major classifications of diamonds covered here. Old mine diamonds, old European diamonds and transitional cut diamonds. All three may be found in vintage engagement rings usually of more than 75 years old.
Old Mine Diamond
Old Mine Cut Diamonds
An irregular shaped perimeter or overall shape, often more square or rectangular. A large open culet and often a deep diamond overall. A smaller table than a modern diamond. An older cut, it is most often seen in jewelryof the 18th and 19th centuries.
Old European Diamonds
A diamond with a round perimeter or overall shape. This cut has an “open” culet as seen above and has a small table. Most often seen from 1900 to about 1935’s in estate jewelry.
Transitional Cut Diamond No Visible Culet, Round
Transitional Cut Diamonds
A round perimeter or round shaped diamond with a very tiny or almost no culet and larger table. Close to our modern diamonds. Use began around 1935 until about 1950.
How Do This Look in Terms of Brilliance?
These diamonds are just a brilliant and beautiful as a modern diamond. Most of these diamonds have less of a machined perfection than our modern diamonds. Machines often facet or polish those diamonds so that each diamond looks exactly like its neighbor. Many people find antique diamonds to be just as brilliant but a bit softer in feel, not so regimented and regular. In fact, many of these diamonds appear to have more life and personality than their modern cousins. Once hooked on the look, it is hard to go back as they are addictive and captivating. For an engagement ring as unique as the woman who wears it, an antique diamond ring may be the only choice.