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Reference - Books of Antique Jewelry & Jewelry History

The Three Graces highly recommends anyone interested in the world of antique jewelry to begin or to continue their learning about this rich subject. Knowledge is key to understanding all aspects of collecting, browsing and fully appreciating early and antique jewelry.

Unfortunately, there is little written for those interested in Eighteenth Century and Georgian jewelry. Although more continues to be published. That information must be gleaned from more general surveys on antique jewelry. Those books marked with an asterisk at the end have more information than others about jewelry of the Eighteenth Century. This is an abbreviated and by no means comprehensive list of some useful books.

General Guides to Identifying 19th & 20th C. Jewelry & Family Heirlooms

  • Warman's Jewelry Identification and Price Guide by Christie Romero. An excellent reference guide for jewelry dating from the late 18th through the 20th century. Thoroughly researched, well organized in a factual, easy to use presentation.
  • How to be a Jewelry Detective by C. Jeanenne Bell – good simple "facts" and reference about the basics of jewelry.
  • Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry. Many photographs and examples of jewelry often found today.
  • An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry by Harold Newman. Very informative with many illustrations and small photos. Highly recommended.
  • Antique Jewellery: Its Manufacture, Materials, & Design by Duncan James. A more general reference book on the mechanics of jewelry.

Surveys of the History of Antique Jewelry

  • Understanding Jewelry by David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti – a wonderful overview.*
  • Jewellery – Reference and Price Guide by Michael Poynder – although the pricing estimates are out of date, still very valuable and great photos of all types of antique jewelry. Covers quite a few Georgian pieces and is highly recommended - a great array of photos, dates and information in concise form. Great for a beginner or for anyone.*
  • Earrings from Antiquity to the Present by Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi. A wonderful retrospective with very clear and fact filled text.*
  • The History of the Necklace: From Antiquity to the Present by Daniela Mascetti & Amanda Triossi.*
  • Jewels and Jewelry by Clare Phillips.

Victorian Antique Jewelry

  • Victorian Jewellery by Margaret Flower. Expert in the field and now in reprint so very affordable.
  • Victorian Jewelry: Unexplored Treasures by Ginny R. Dawe and Corinne Davidov. Coming out with a paperback so it will be quite affordable.
  • Sentimental Jewellery: Antique Jewels of Love and Sorrow by Ann Louise Luthi. Very inexpensive thin paperback but excellent reference and pictures.*

Georgian & Earlier Jewelry

  • A History of Jewellery 1100-1870 by Joan Evans. Dame Joan Evans is considered one of the great historians of jewelry. This is a scholarly text with photos and drawings but is highly interesting. First published in 1953 and again in 1970.*
  • Jewellery in Britain 1066-1837: A Documentary, Social, Literary and Artistic Survey by Diana Scarisbrick – very informative with photos and has quite a bit on Georgian jewelry. An excellent author.*
  • Five Centuries of Jewellery National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon. An 18th Century stroll through items to lust after! Very good picture references as well for Spanish and Portuguese paste.* Difficult to obtain and expensive but a great visual collection.
  • Cut Steel & Berlin Iron Jewellery by Anne Clifford. - Hard to find and expensive but one of the few in-depth resources on this type of jewellery.

Antique Paste & Costume Jewelry

  • Fabulous Costume Jewelry by Vivienne Becker – out of print but can be found – Invaluable reference on paste, cut steel, pinchbeck and more. First chapters solely on 18th and 19th centuries. Later chapters go into modern costume jewelry.*
  • Antique Paste Jewellery by M.D.S. Lewis – out of print but can be found – a must for the paste collector!*

Rings

  • Rings Symbols of Wealth, Power and Affection by Diana Scarisbrick – Excellent author; superb reference book on rings from the Middle Ages to modern examples.
  • Finger Rings by Diana Scarisbrick. Excellent small resource with many photos from ancient to 19th century rings.*
  • British Rings 800-1914 by Charles Oman. Scholarly but many examples; good for earlier rings; well respected author who was part of the Victoria and Albert Museum.*

Hallmarks

  • American Jewelry Manufacturers by Dorothy T. Rainwater. Essential guide to American jewelers mostly working from the mid 19th century to the 20th century.
  • Jackson's Silver & Gold Marks of England, Scotland & Ireland edited by Ian Pickford. Considered the reference book on the subject, large and a bit pricey.
  • Bradbury's Book of Hallmarks by Frederick Bradbury. Small, inexpensive pocket concise guide for Britain, Scotland and Ireland.
  • Poincons d'Or et de Platine by Tardy. Essential reference for French hallmarks.
  • Poincons d'Argent by Tardy. French silver hallmarks.

Cameos

  • Nineteenth Century Cameos by Michele Rowan. A superb resource.

  • Cameos Old and New by Anna M. Miller. A survey of the history of cameos. Very helpful.

For the true collector

  • Jewellery Volume I and II by Shirley Bury. A great in-depth look at the history of Jewellery from 1789-1910 in two large hardback volumes.

Book Sources

Amazon.com and other online books stores carry a surprising range of books. Judy Cohen Books specializes in jewelry books at www.jmcohenrarebooks.com as does the Jewelry-Book Collector's Club at (413) 527-4510 who also publishes a print catalog. Both are very helpful. Additionally, Alibris is a good online source.

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