Fit for a Duchess - Diamond, Ruby & Chrysophrase Bracelet

Radiant gold, irresistible diamonds, a verdant chrysophrase and the elusive ruby are all melded into a bracelet that emanates opulence. We can imagine that the original caretaker of this treasure was a woman of the highest class living in England. She may have just attended the Great Exhibition of 1851 held at the staggering Crystal Palace or perhaps was influenced by having just read Elizabeth Barrett Browning”s "Sonnets from the Portuguese" with those famous words, "How do I love thee”. Romantic painters of the day, Rossetti and Corot, developed a visual “vocabulary” for the ethereal and the ideal. Romance was certainly in the air, including the all pervasive presence of the Raj-era which was the topic of many a torrid conversation and held sway over both fashion and the aesthetic.

The workmanship involves the nineteenth century art of repoussé gold work. Hammered out from the reverse, it is shaped and molded. Then joined to its twin, puffs of metal form a golden pathway for the links of the bracelet. In the center, the classic English touch of a bed of chased flowers and leaves form a carpet upon which sit the gems. This design can be seen in a number of variations in a good deal of jewelry in the early and mid century. The tripartite area allows for a sculpted fit on the wrist. Old mine cut diamonds and small rectangular cut rubies dot the surface. Oval in form, the chrysophrase is a gem which was used quite often during this era but has never regained its popularity. One wonders why as its milky cool essence is so appealing.

On the reverse, a small rectangular compartment may at one time have held the hair of someone near and dear to the original owner. Now empty but retains its original cover. The piece remains with its original fitted box of maroon leather and lined with a rich heady blue velvet and silk marked with the London jeweler's name. In near mint condition with the bracelet showing just a touch of light wear.

Measures 6-3/4 inches in length and 1-½ inches at the widest. The link area is deep at 3/8 of an inch. The gold is a luminous 18k of weighty construction. There are six (6) small diamonds at roughly .05 of a carat each and rubies of the same size (weight for rubies is different than for diamonds). Circa 1840.

Provenance: From the collection & ancestral family of the Baroness Charlotte de Serdici now of London.

Note: All diamond weights and color grades are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.