Exceptional Edwardian Pearl & Diamond Earrings
Some jewels need no explanation for their grace and elegance emanate clearly from every angle. Here influences of the Art Deco movement soon to come are seen in the linear quality of these earrings and the ubiquitous three-part construction. Clean and perfect, a line of diamonds transitions to a shapely and curvaceous teardrop of diamonds and large natural pearls. Of the Edwardian period, the use of platinum, millegrain settings, and pearls are the order of the day. The earrings start in a grand manner with three larger brilliant round-cut diamonds and alternating with six (6) rose cut diamonds in a line. Each larger brilliant diamond is about 1/10 of a carat (.1) and is set in a millegrain setting.
This type of setting originated in the Edwardian period and consists of a plain bezel that holds a gem, but the edge is deckled and has tiny beading atop it. Giving the settings a touch of intricacy, the six (6) rose cut diamonds are set in a line, also in a millegrain rectangular cartouche. Another larger diamond, and a line of rose cuts and a final diamond – all articulated to move and sway. At the bottom is a very fine fancy teardrop set with minute diamonds for accents and meticulous and precise open work in triangular forms. Inside sits two leaf shapes of diamonds and from these are suspended the two magnificent natural baroque pearls.
Each pearl has its own characteristic shape and hues, but bronzes, yellows, blues and greens predominate, one being slightly more bronzy golden that the other. Each measures 8.6 cm by 6.8 cm and 8.8 by 7.7 cm. Dangling freely, the pearls moves effortlessly as does the entire earring. Overall, they measure 2 1/8 inches long by just under ½ inch wide (5.3 cm by 1.2 cm). The construction is of platinum, and the early part of the 20th century was its heyday (only surpassed by its comeback in the 90’s). The ear wires and lever backs are 18k gold and all are superbly constructed. Condition is very good with minor wear evident, both pearls appear to have been reattached by glue at some point and each pearl shows a drill hole but at opposite ends (perhaps in re-securing the pearl one was placed in the opposite direction. Otherwise very fine. Earrings are the holy grail of the jewelry world and these are a pleasure to find and present. Circa 1910.
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