Georgian Emerald & Diamond Ring
Emeralds have certainly been a favorite amount the cognoscenti of the jewelry world for centuries. The Spanish popularized them in the 17th and 18th centuries as they controlled mines in Brazil. Their obsession with them pervaded Europe and the Isles as well. A deep, vivid emerald in square cut graces the center of this ring. Nearly ½ carat in size, it brings vibrancy and depth to the glittering surround of diamonds. Colored gems were almost always set into gold and here it is mounted in a pinched collet rim. Six (6) early rose cuts shimmer and sparkle with life not usually found in early foiled jewels. Each is about .2 carats for an approximate total of 1.2 carats. All set in closed back settings and foiled, they refract and glint every hue in the rainbow. Quite large, the entire cluster measures 9/16 of an inch high and ½ inch wide (1.9 cm by 1.3 cm). The shank is classic – a solid back that is reeded in three parts then divides into a central reeded middle and two arches forms decorated with scrolls and flourishes all in gold. At some point, a second layer of gold was laid into the back to size the ring smaller. Currently a size 5 ¼ (UK J ¾) this could be removed, or sized to fit many fingers. Dating to circa 1790, it is just splendid on the hand – not too large but this a great presence and dignity. Place this in natural light or candlelight and you will be dazzled – hard to take one’s eyes from the hand that dons this jewel. In excellent condition there is some wear to the emerald and one tiny loss or minute chip at the middle of one side next to the collet mount – visible only with magnification. Possibly English in origin.
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