Amethyst Late 17th Century Ring

Some forms and styles have been in vogue and re-fashioned and re-interpreted throughout an era, and throughout history. Particularly in the later part of the 17th and 18th century you will find certain various motifs used and re-made in different ways. The dome of this ring is similar to other domes shapes used on various pieces of jewelry of this period. It was the cluster form of the 17th century. Notice its high construction, its use of rub-over settings for the stones, its saw tooth designed carved into the gold and silver bezel. You can see this in other jewelry of the age if you look closely. While this does not refer to its rarity, as this is quite a rare ring, it does help to date and place the ring in context of a time.

The center dome is set with flat cut stones, amethyst for the center and surrounding this are black dot pastes. Each is set in rub over settings, the amethyst in gold, the pastes in silver. The sides of each bezel are decorated with a classic 17th century saw tooth design. The back is deeply engraved and then was filled with black enamel, still mostly present. The shank is gold, and deeply chased and also enameled, some now missing. Scrolling designs are evident on each side and then the band transitions to a smooth surface. The ring dates to the later part of the 17th century and is a sheer delight. Rarely now does jewelry survive so many centuries, and in this case remarkably intact. The ring is not only a tribute to the artistry of the day, but also is simply a stunning and regal ring. Putting this on transforms the wearer and this is truly fit for a Countess. The dome measures ½ inch wide and just under ½ inch tall. The central stone is approximately 6/10 of a carat and measures 5 mm each way. The shank is a size 3 ¾ or a bit more (UK I ½). The condition is very good with some enamel loss to the reverse and quite a bit of the shank, but still evident. All stones are original and in excellent condition as is the gold and silver work. Quite rare and a collector’s delight.

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