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Art Deco Sublime: Diamond Jabot Pin


During the Art Deco era, jabots were worn by Coco Chanel, the veritable queen of the period and the jabot pin was reintroduced as “new jewelry” by Cartier, the Emperor of Art Deco design. Often worn on a cloche or other style of hat, the jabot pin was a decoration for the shoulder, the bosom or even for a purse.

Here we have an exceptionally large and elaborate example of such a versatile item of jewelry. More than 4 inches of diamond-set platinum luxury and when unattached to fabric, the ornate brooch appears as a regal scepter. The top features a black enamel rectangle adorned with a headdress set with an array of old European, old mine, rose and single cut diamonds. (57 diamonds in all, 24 old European, 1 old mine, 2 rose and 30 single cut diamonds).

The large central diamond in the stylized flower form is an old mine cut of an estimated .47 carats. Springing forth from the flower head rivulets of diamonds cascade down the enameled sides.

North and south two columns of diamond-studded fittings attach to the rectangle. The bottom fitting is a tad more intricate as it includes a linear black enamel element with a diamond-set geometric shape. The terminal at the end of the 14k white gold shaft (just the pin stem is gold, the rest platinum) is removable. Just press on the fitting and it slides off the stem and with a click the fitting is on. A safety chain adds security to the striking piece embellished with an estimated total weight of 2.48 carats (I-J color average; SI1-SI2 clarity).

Date: Circa 1920.

Historical Notes: From the genre of sporting jewelry comes the 17th century jabot pin. Designed to ornament and secure a jabot (a type of neckwear or ruffle worn on the shirt of a gentleman or on the front of the blouse of a lady), it differs from a stock pin or brooch as a central pin joins an ornamental terminal at each end of the stem. One of the terminals has a mechanism which releases it from the stem, thereby enabling the pointed end to pass through the fabric for it to be secured. When worn the pin stem itself is invisible.

+ Measurements, Condition & More

Measurements: 4-5/16 inches (11.0 cm) in length by 13/16 of an inch (2.0 cm) in width. Weight of 11.2 grams (7.2 dwt).

Condition: Excellent; light wear to the enamel.

Note: Diamond weights are approximated by measurement and formula and may vary from actual if removed. Grading may also vary. All diamonds are tested in our gemological laboratory. All metals are acid tested.

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