Heavenly Georgian Emerald Diamond Pendant
Wondrous Georgian craftsmanship is the catch phrase in describing this late 18th century pendant. The girandole form characterized a great deal of jewelry of this period. A form with three drops, there were a myriad of ways this was reinterpreted. Although this configuration was used mostly for earrings, it was also evident in stomacher brooches and pendants.
Foliate motifs and garlands were in evidence throughout almost the entire 1700s and this pendant circa 1780 is no exception. Rose cut diamonds, fifty-four (54) in all are set in silver and the twenty-one (21) natural emeralds in 15k yellow gold. Of course, all gems are foiled and set closed back and are in what is what we refer to as an eyelid setting – similar to a bezel set but with asymmetrical forms around the stones. This style is typically found from the earliest years of the century up to around 1790.
Most of the emeralds appear to be Colombian in origin with their intense vivid green coloration. Four (4) of the smaller ones are a bit paler in hue. The articulated central flower cluster sways with subtle movements as do the three emerald-set pendant drops. The removable emerald bezel is a later addition yet adds to the balance and harmony of the piece. Please note the sculptural rounded construction of the reverse typical of the time period. This changed around 1790 with neoclassicism dominating styles of the era.
Date: Circa 1780.
Measurements: 2-5/16 inches (5.9 cm) in length including bale by 1-1/4 inches (3.2 cm) in width. Weight of 14.6 grams (9.4 dwt).
Condition: Excellent for its age; top bale is a later addition and removable; many emeralds have light wear; center emerald of large flower has an edge chip visible upon very close inspection or with magnification.
Origin: Most likely European.
Note: All gemstones are tested in our gemological laboratory. All metals are acid tested.
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