Art Nouveau Enamel Flower Brooch
This evocative brooch comes from one of the largest, if not the largest manufacturer and designer of American Art Nouveau jewelry – Carter Gough & Company of Newark, New Jersey. Drawing on the influence of nature, a stylized and asymmetrical heart shaped element forms the basic configuration for a sensual brooch of 14k yellow gold. Sweeping curves of foliate-like tendrils or leaves entwined one with the other capture a six petal flower centered with a 4 mm white cultured pearl.
The imagery reflects both the romantic and erotic influences of Japanese style. The central focus is the flower seemingly alive reacting to being entrapped by those surrounding leaves. To no avail, the translucent polychromatic enamel ornamentation makes a futile attempt to calm the edginess of the overall piece.
Date: Circa 1910.
Measurements: 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length by 1 inch (2.5 cm) in width. Weight of 5.3 grams (3.4 dwt).
Hallmarks: 14k; Carter Gough mark of a "C" on an arrowhead.
Note: All metal is acid tested.
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