Victorian Neoclassical Brooch Pendant
Similar to trends in clothing coming back in style, jewelry motifs can return with a revival or with the passage of time. In a sense, the expression “everything old is new again” is credible. If we look at the fashion of jewelry from 1890 through 1910, there was a resurgence of the neoclassic style as well as many of the themes and materials used which were directly from one hundred years prior. Although order, symmetry and simplicity reigned overall as tenets of the style in both versions, reinterpretation through a fresh eye and new techniques created jewels with subtle differences.
For example, this circa 1900 brooch pendant of 14k yellow gold recalls the motif of entwined hearts surmounted with bow and crown set with twenty-seven (27) tiny rose cut diamonds taken directly from 1800 as is the red and white enamel with dots of gold scattered about the form.
The scalloped outer perimeter of white enamel is reminiscent of the garland borrowed from the earlier century. The central element is embellished with vivid crimson translucent enamel of the guilloché technique. Two gold rims accent the enamel as eight lustrous pearls delight under scalloped canopies of white enamel. The reverse reveals the brooch fittings as well as the flip pendant bale. Moreover, note the hinged arched fitting used to remove the backing to a hidden locket compartment!
Date: Circa 1900.
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Measurements: 2-1/8 inches (5.4 cm) in length including bale by 1 inch (2.5 cm) in width. Weight of 7.0 grams (4.5 dwt).
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