Black, Starr & Frost Diamond Natural Pearl Necklace
Black, Starr & Frost was founded in 1810 and is among the first American purveyors of fine jewelry. Known more for its magnificent workmanship, the firm has continued to produce fine jewelry.
The lavaliere necklace or bow knot motif necklace was one of the style innovations of the Edwardian period. It emerged around 1900 and was initially a simple chain necklace with two pendant drops on chain (often of uneven lengths) hanging side by side. A myth regarding the name lavaliere emerges from attribution to the French actress Eve Lavallière who was alleged to wear a tie in the asymmetric style – a woman whose previous role was that of a worker tying ribbons in a hat factory.
During this time pearls, diamonds and platinum were the mainstays of important, i.e., fine jewelry. Here we have a traditional interpretation of the form employing two simple length of platinum chain supporting a platinum over 18k yellow gold stylized knotted ribbon motif element inset with a suspended articulated natural saltwater pear shaped pearl and two uneven long drops each also terminating in articulated natural pearls.
In all, the pendant is encrusted with thirty-three (33) old European cut and two (2) single cut diamonds of an estimated 2.17 carats (H-I color; VS2 clarity) with the largest diamonds being .07 carats each. The three natural pearls have good luster, are cream in color and range in size from 6 to 7 mm.
An EGL USA certificate for the three pearls stating they are all natural saltwater pearls accompanies the necklace.
Date: Circa 1905.
Measurements: 2 inches (5.0 cm) in length including by 7/8 of an inch (2.2 cm) in width. Chain is 16 inches (40.6 cm) in length. Weight of 10.9 grams (7.0 dwt).
Hallmarks: BS&F for Black Starr & Frost; PT950 on the chain (platinum).
Note: Diamond weights are approximated by measurement and formula and may vary from actual if removed. Grading may also vary. All metals are acid tested.
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