Art Deco on High: Emerald Diamond Brooch
The Art Deco era brought so many innovative and fantastic fashions and accessories to the forefront. Without a doubt, jewelry of the time is a standout. Can you guess what type of adornment might trump all the rest? Rest easy that you didn't know it is the dress clip.
A piece such as this dress clip is what comes to mind when one envisions the Hollywood of the 1930s with its big time stars clad in even bigger sized jewelry ensconced in diamonds and fabulous color gemstones. Geometrics galore, the clip is literally covered in fifty-nine (59) diamonds of an estimated 3.1 carats and includes twenty-seven (27) single cut, twenty-six (26) old European cut and a classic cascading staircase form of six (6) large baguette diamonds graduated in size. Baguette color averages H-I with VS clarity. Other diamonds range I-J color with VS clarity.
Draping the bottom in a garland form are seven (7) very fine emeralds of an intense vivid green color exquisitely carved with foliate and leaf motifs. In addition, please note the two emerald terminals cut en cabochon at the top for a total estimated emerald weight of 3.45 carats. All set in platinum with the pins and hinges to the reverse of 14k white gold.
Date: Circa 1930.
Measurements: 1-1/2 inches (3.2 cm) at the longest by 7/8 of an inch (2.1 cm) in width by 1 inch (2.5 cm) in width at the top. Weight of 9.8 grams (6.3 dwt).
Note: Stones were not removed to preserve the integrity of the setting. All weights are approximated by measurement and formula and may vary from actual weights. Grading may vary if stones are removed.
Historical Notes: According to lore, the dress clip was originally designed in the late 1920s by Cartier. By the 1930s Chanel had the fur collars of her couture collection decorated with them. Although worn in styles similar to that of the brooch, the dress clip was used as a singleton or in pairs designed to accent a neckline either at the crux of a v-shaped neckline or at the corners of a sweetheart or square neckline. The Depression saw the trend rise with any number of these sparkly accent pieces rendered in more affordable materials.
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