French Enamel Watch & Chain with Original Box
One of the holy grails for the connoisseur or collector of antique jewelry is when an item is accompanied by the original box. Such a container typically includes the name of the retailer and or manufacturer and the address of the company and was specifically shaped and sized to fit the object.
Here we present a magnificent piece of antique jewelry which is worthy of being referred to as Art which can be used functionally. Retailed by Howard & Co., one of the first jewelers of New York to move from downtown to Fifth Avenue (a now iconic row of retailers) is a pendant watch and chain.
The watch is of 18k yellow gold and guilloché enamel steel blue in color. Centered is a platinum foliate motif accented with eight (8) tiny rose cut diamonds from which radiates a scalloped sunburst pattern. From Bailly of France, the timepiece runs perfectly but may not maintain exact time, as it is a mechanical instrument which can benefit from the regular maintenance of a watchmaker.
The watch chain is a testament to femininity and beauty. Made by the prominent Newark jewelry manufacturer Carter, Gough & Co. of 14k yellow gold fetter links and batons of steel blue with white and blue enamel with gold end caps, the chain terminates with a dog clip clasp.
Date: Circa 1900.
Historical Notes: The original owner of Howard & Co. worked for many years at Tiffany & Co. Howard & Co. was a prominent New York jeweler and silversmith in business from 1866 until 1922. The main shop was located on Fifth Avenue with branch stores in Paris, London and Newport.
Measurements: Watch is 1-3/8 inches (3.5 cm) in length by 1 inch (1.2 cm) in width. Chain is 22-1/2 inches (57.2 cm) in total length. Weight of 21.5 grams (13.8 dwt) for pendant and chain.
Hallmarks: Watch movement is Bailly, France, horse's head, 600009 and SG; movement is marked 17 jewels, Justaments and Bailly France. 14k inside dog clip.
Condition: Excellent; watch dial has light wear toward the center.
Origin: American with a French movement.
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