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1925 Flip: Kinetic Diamond Ruby Sapphire Ring

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We associated kinetic jewelry only with those fab years of the ‘60s and ‘70s. Quite the fashion rage, individual elements turned, rotated or moved as the concept changed – with a mystery and fascination. However, there have been precursors to this not so long ago movement and this piece from around 1925 shows those not so humble origins.

Most likely a stickpin and dating to the Art Deco era, an innovator custom made a platinum mount and transformed it into a ring. Kinetic and versatile, there are eight different presentations as each element has two sides and two looks. A central pivot pin allows the parts to flip up or down creating multiple combinations.

The outer rim is set with natural rubies on one side and diamonds on the other; the inner circle has diamonds and, with a flip, natural sapphires make their presence known; and then the center as a diamond or ruby. The diamonds and sapphires are set in platinum topped 14k yellow gold with the rubies in yellow gold. Our photographs show but just a few of the variations.

A total of 37 old single cut diamonds graces the three elements (.72 carats, color I, SI1 clarity) and 23 rubies (.69 carats) and 14 sapphires (.28 carats). A marvel of design and workmanship all in one ring.

Please be aware that when worn the discs slightly turn as the piece was designed to shadow your body movements.

Date: Center circa 1925, mount mid to later 20th century.

+ Measurements, Condition & More

Measurements: 5/8 of an inch (1.4 cm) in length north to south on the hand and rises 5/16 of an inch (0.9 cm) in height off the finger. Weight of 10.9 grams (7.0 dwt).

Ring Size: US 7-1/4 (UK O; Euro or Int. Circum. 55.0 mm; Int. Dia. 17.5 mm; Japan over 14) and easily can be sized to fit most. Ring sizing information.

Condition: Excellent; converted from a stickpin to a ring with a later date mount.

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