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1925 Flip: Kinetic Diamond Ruby Sapphire Ring


We associated kinetic jewelry only with those fab years of the ‘60s and ‘70s. Quite the fashion rage, individual elements turned, rotated or moved as the concept changed – with a mystery and fascination. However, there have been precursors to this not so long ago movement and this piece from around 1925 shows those not so humble origins.

Most likely a stickpin and dating to the Art Deco era, an innovator custom made a platinum mount and transformed it into a ring. Kinetic and versatile, there are eight different presentations as each element has two sides and two looks. A central pivot pin allows the parts to flip up or down creating multiple combinations.

The outer rim is set with natural rubies on one side and diamonds on the other; the inner circle has diamonds and, with a flip, natural sapphires make their presence known; and then the center as a diamond or ruby. The diamonds and sapphires are set in platinum topped 14k yellow gold with the rubies in yellow gold. Our photographs show but just a few of the variations.

A total of 37 old single cut diamonds graces the three elements (.72 carats, color I, SI1 clarity) and 23 rubies (.69 carats) and 14 sapphires (.28 carats). A marvel of design and workmanship all in one ring.

Please be aware that when worn the discs slightly turn as the piece was designed to shadow your body movements.

Date: Center circa 1925, mount mid to later 20th century.

+ Measurements, Condition & More

Measurements: 5/8 of an inch (1.4 cm) in length north to south on the hand and rises 5/16 of an inch (0.9 cm) in height off the finger. Weight of 10.9 grams (7.0 dwt).

Ring Size: US 7-1/4 (UK O; Euro or Int. Circum. 55.0 mm; Int. Dia. 17.5 mm; Japan over 14) and easily can be sized to fit most. Ring sizing information.

Condition: Excellent; converted from a stickpin to a ring with a later date mount.

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