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Antique Tiffany & Co. Guilloché Enamel Locket

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The fashion of wearing lockets retained its Victorian popularity well into the 20th century with a bit of a shift toward round versus oval configuration. Here the “humble” locket is immortalized with the stamp of perhaps the foremost prestigious jewelry house in America – that of Tiffany & Company.

This locket of 14k yellow gold is ornamented with subtle guilloché enamel decoration. The motif is Egyptian revival of papyrus fronds etched into the metal on both the front and back. Using a specialized machine, a set of fine lines and intricate curves has been incised over the gold surface to create an ornate pattern with an architectural flavor. Covered with a luscious French blue enamel color, the design is given depth and the visual effect increased. The interior reveals a compartment with rim for securing a photograph.

The technique of guilloché enamel originated at the turn of the 18th century with a revival at the next century mark. Watches and lockets with their round and flat surfaces were particularly well suited to the form.

Date: Circa 1900.

+ Measurements, Condition & More

Measurements: 1-1/2 inches (3.8 cm) in length including bale and top “O” fitting; 1-1/16 inches (3 cm) in diameter. Weight of 13.7 grams (8.8 dwt).

Hallmarks: “Tiffany & Co.”; “14k”; “6035”.

Condition: Excellent; later plastic insert.

Origin: American.

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