Signed Giuliano Enamel Brooch with Box
Held in such high esteem, the jewels of Giuliano et al. are more prized today than during the 1800s. Carlo Giuliano was regarded as one of the preeminent jewelers of the 19th century and his firm reigned alongside the famous Castellani family of master jewelers. The earliest work was more in the tradition of archaeological revival but by around 1870 a shift was made to a Giuliano interpretation of Renaissance-inspired design with the trademark use of contrasting patterns of tiny dots of black and white enamel.
Most often his pieces are understated, with a preference of relying on cabochon cut gems and a delicate use of enamel to inspire detail. This signed C & A Giuliano brooch of 18k yellow gold is clearly Renaissance influenced yet displays the open work attributed to “neo-Renaissance” design.
A red guilloché enamel orb is centered within a field of contrasting black and white enamel with the trademark dots. At each of the cardinal points four (4) sapphires en cabochon are set in castellated bezels of yellow gold. The brooch displays a linear symmetry in both horizontal and vertical planes.
The period jewel is accompanied by a gold tooled brown leather box of issue with interior of cream velvet and silk embossed with “C&A Giuliano, 115 Piccadilly, London”.
Date: Circa 1896 - 1912.
Measurements: 5/8 of an inch (1.5 cm) in length by 1-1/4 inches (3.2 cm) in width. Weight of 3.3 grams (2.1 dwt).
Hallmarks: “C&A G”.
Condition: Excellent for the brooch with nothing of note. Box has a bit of exterior wear and light staining to velvet interior.
Historical Notes: Although employing his sons Arthur and Carlo Joseph, the workshop was solely in Giuliano’s name from 1860 until 1877. In 1874 he also opened a shop with his son under the name Carlo and Arthur Giuliano. Known for their enamel work, and in particular the technique using tiny dots, Carlo moved the workshop from Italy to London in 1863. In 1875 the business opened at 115 Piccadilly and continued at this address until 1912. The firm moved again and finally closed its doors in 1914.
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