Signed Kollmar & Jourdan Platinum Pendant
The last decade of the 19th and first fifteen or so years of the 20th century produced some of the finest jewelry ever made. The Edwardian era and the Belle Époque were in full flower and the decorative arts of the time reflected the true character of the Gay Nineties and the Gilded Age.
The renowned German firm of Kollmar & Jourdan of Pforzheim, Germany designed and executed this superb pendant. Rendered in platinum open work with delicate mille grain detailing, seventy-four (74) diamonds in an array of old European, old mine, old single and rose cut diamonds of more than 1 carat (G-H color range; VS2-SI1 clarity) embellish this neo-classic pendant. Three (3) pearl drops (two are natural and one is a replaced cultured pearl) conclude the symmetry of the piece.
Centered within the lace-like platinum is an oval enamel on copper plaque featuring a maiden draped with a diaphanous gown grasping a branch with leaves and clusters of ripe grapes as she dances in celebration of the harvest. The image itself is blue and white enamel against a deep cobalt blue background.
Measurements: Pendant is 3-1/4 inches (8.3 cm) in total length including bale; enamel oval is 1-1/8 inches (2.8 cm) in length by 7/8 of an inch (2.2 cm) in width. Chain is 15-3/4 inches (40 cm) in length. Weight of 14.5 grams (9.3 dwt) for both pendant and chain.
Hallmarks: “KJ” and an arrow for the maker’s mark of Kollamer & Jourdan. Modern chain hallmarked Italy and 950 (for platinum).
Condition: Excellent; slight traces of glue to connection points of two smallest pearls; small left pearl most likely replaced; one additional pearl possibly replaced.
Origin: Pforzheim, Germany.
Note: Diamonds have not been removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting. All diamond weights have been approximated by measurement and formula and may vary from actual weights. Grading has been done in situ and also may vary if stones are removed.
Historical Notes: Founded in 1885 and located in Pforzheim Germany, the German jewelry manufacturer of Kollmar & Jourdan were renown as “purveyors of fine jewelry and ornamental objects for personal use”. Awarded the gold medal at the Paris Exposition Universalle of 1900 and at the 1903 St. Petersburg Art & Industry Trade Fair, the firm continued with production until World War II when the factory was destroyed. The tradition continued as the company rebuilt and remained in business until 1977. The Schmuck Museum in Pforzheim, Germany, the only museum in the world devoted exclusively to jewelry has a number of items from Kollmar & Jourdan in their collection. For information in reference to their Art Nouveau jewelry see page 196 – 202 in “Art Nouveau Jewellery from Pforzheim” by Fritz Falk.
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