Edwardian Turquoise Coral & Pearl Brooch Set
A grand example of Austrian craftsmanship from 1900, this superb set of three brooches and two veil pins (similar to a stick pin) was originally designed as a wedding set. The bride was to wear the brooches on various parts of the dress and of course, the so-named veil pins on her veil.
Of 14k yellow gold, the set has an underlying symbolic theme with its botanical motif. The foliate design is embellished with vivid green guilloche enamel leaves accompanying natural coral, turquoise and natural pearl petal flowers. Rose cut diamonds accent the floral centers and those pieces with the wheat sheaf symbol. Overall there are thirty-three (33) rose cuts in the large brooch, twenty-four (24) in the two smaller brooches and one (1) diamond appointing each veil pin.
The emblematic wedding set uses coral to denote desire coupled with happiness, turquoise as representing sincerity and affection and pearls for purity. The wheat sheaf motif is traditionally associated with the Goddess Demeter and symbolizes the wish of fruitfulness (fecundity) for the marriage.
Accompanied by the original deep maroon silk box with interior of cream velvet and silk embossed with “V.M. Ayer & Sohne, K.K. Hof-U, Kammer-Juweliere, Ordenfabrikanten, Wien (Vienna)”.
Date: Circa 1900.
Measurements: Large brooch is 1-1/8 inches (2.8 cm) in length by 1-5/8 inches (4 cm) in width and has a weight of 9.7 grams (6.2 dwt).
Smaller brooch is 1/2 of an inch (1.4 cm) in length by 1-7/16 inches (3.5 cm) in width.
Pin is 1-3/4 inches (4.5 cm) in length. Flower is 7/16 of an inch (1.1 cm) in length by 5/16 of an inch (0.7 cm) in width.
Weight of 17.9 grams (11.5 dwt) for entire set.
Condition: Excellent; to the reverse some silver solder is evident on both smaller brooches and the large brooch at some connection points. Box condition is fair with the edges of silk worn through and light staining to the interior.
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