Celestial French Diamond & Sapphire Moonstone Brooch
Although the technology of photography has progressed to an almost ultimate degree, there are a few items of jewelry which in order to fully appreciate must be viewed in person. Such is the case with this celestial brooch circa 1890.
Ah, La Belle Époque…jewelry designers of the time looked back for inspiration and found it: France of the 18th century presented the grandness of the Baroque and Renaissance era with its bows, ribbons and swags; the Empire introduced the garland style which Cartier seized for the 1900 Paris Exposition.
Simply the finest and highest quality blue moonstone has been majestically carved so deeply that when viewing the representation of the elegant period woman “backlit” with a tiara upon her upswept wavy hair, a breath is needed to calm the astonishment. She wears a flowing gown with sheer front bodice to her neck. Translucent and ethereal, when viewed from certain angles there seems to be a scallop or ray-like effect emanating from the perimeter of the moonstone.
Set in silver-topped 18k yellow gold, an oval surround of fifteen (15) natural sapphires and thirty (30) rose cut diamonds with an estimated total weight of .30 carats creates a corona of precious gems to attempt to equal the radiance of an unknown woman. The brooch has an 18k yellow gold coronet setting of openwork design.
Measurements: 1-1/4 inches (3.2 cm) in length by 1 inch (2.5 cm) at the widest by 5/16 of an inch (0.7 cm) in depth. Weight of 11.7 grams (7.5 dwt).
Hallmarks: Indistinct hallmarks to "C" clasp and pin stem.
Condition: Excellent; one bend to the pin stem which appears to be an element of the original configuration. Moonstone is very fine.
Date & Origin: Circa 1890 and is most likely French in origin.
Note: Diamonds have not been removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting. All diamond weights have been approximated by measurement and formula and may vary from actual weights.
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