Georgian Almandine Garnet Eye Brooch
Shuttle or eye-shaped jewelry holds a unique position in the history of jewelry. This configuration was employed by Georgian jewelers from about 1770 to 1810, and unlike most of the design forms throughout the fashion of jewelry, was virtually never used again.
The mid to later Georgian era favored garnets, especially almandine, for daytime wear. Predominantly flat cut, the gems have fine facets around the perimeter. Sleek and sensuous, and almost modern appearing, this 9k rose gold shuttle brooch displays an array of these spectacular garnets in a variety of hues of wine, pink and plum. Typical of the period, the gems are in hand-crimped collets of rose gold, foiled and set closed back.
Please note on the reverse of the brooch, the very flat back characteristic of the period. The work in and of itself is typically English and retains all its original garnets and brooch fittings. For similarly shaped jewelry, please refer to page 61 in “Jewels and Jewelery” by Clare Phillips.
Measurements: 3/4 of an inch (1.7 cm) in length by 2-5/8 inches (6 cm) in width. Weight of 8.7 grams (5.5 dwt).
Condition: Very good; two garnets with chipped tips visible with close inspection or magnification. Variation in garnet color as expected due to nature of natural gemstones and the foiling; however all are bright and fine.
Date & Origin: Circa 1790 and is most likely English in origin.
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