Miniature Stained Glass - Plique A Jour Pendant
In Newman’s An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry plique-à-jour is “a technique in enamelling by which the design is outlined in metal and filled in with variously coloured transparent enamels but with no backing behind the enamel, so that the effect is similar to that of a stained glass window.” The process was initially developed in the 14th to 15th century and was revived by Fabergé and Lalique during the late 19th and early 20th century.
Art Nouveau gave a renewed breath to this difficult and scarcely used enameling process. The sensuous nature of the style lends itself quite well to the pastel shades of translucent enamel in this early 20th century brooch. Here the iconic Art Nouveau female figure is artfully detailed in 14k yellow gold against an enamel background of floral designs. A ribbed perimeter punctuated with cross ribbon accents at the cardinal points perfectly encapsulates the image.
Measurements: 1-1/8 inches (2.9 cm) in length by 13/16 of an inch (2.1 cm) in diameter. Weight of 2.5 grams (1.6 dwt).
Date: Circa 1910.