Rare 18th C. Spanish Emerald Brooch & Pendant
Utilizing the typical bow and pendant drop design prevalent of the time, scrolling foliage of antique 18k yellow gold and vivid rich green Colombian emeralds (held in the highest regard to this day) join forces in the creation of a rare late 18th century two-element bow slide. Characteristic of the metal work of the Iberian Peninsula, this brooch with removable pendant drop is set with one of the more popular of the early gem cuts - table cut emeralds. The reverse reveals the dual slide bars and brooch fittings.
The central cluster of the bow form displays the traditional bezel and “pillow of gems” accented with a saw-tooth surround. The removable pendant is lyrical in its structure of stylized foliage dotted with the striking table cut emeralds. A six-petal flower set with emeralds displays the expected saw-tooth bezel as well. Magnificent and scarce.
For similar work please refer to “Five Centuries of Jewellery - National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon” and page 51 of “Jewels and Jewellery” by Claire Phillips.
Measurements: Slide and pendant are 3-1/8 inches (7.8 cm) in total length with a weight of 32.9 grams (21.2 dwt). Bow top is 1-7/8 inches (4.8 cm) in length by 2-13/16 inches (7.1 cm) in width with a weight of 23.0 grams (14.7 dwt). Pendant alone is 1-7/8 inches (4.7 cm) in length by 1-7/16 inches (3.7 cm) in width and has a weight of 10.0 grams (6.4 dwt).
Condition: Excellent for its age. Inclusions in all emeralds as expected. About 30 small emeralds chipped to varying degrees. Some bezels flawed with age. Bottom drop has had restoration work to the back to reinforce several connections. Later brooch fitting attached to original slide fittings.
Date & Origin: Circa later 18th century and is Spanish or Portuguese in origin.
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