Georgian Amethyst & Pearl Brooch
Small brooches, often referred to as lace or fichu pins were a must for the fashionable lady of the early 19th century. Dresses of the day had very low cut front bodices; consequently it was necessary to drape diaphanous scarves or sections of lace across the shoulders to cover the exposed décolleté. Brooches of this genre were used to pin the scarves together or fasten to the dress. Surprisingly varied within such a small range, they often had a somewhat rectangular form and surrounded by pearls.
This brooch is a particularly large example of the characteristically diminutive fichu pin. A large magnificent faceted cushion shaped amethyst of approximately 17.5 carats has been set open back into a mount of 9k rose gold. The rich purple stone, with flashes of red and blue highlights has a magical cut – the edges have been faceted to display extraordinary refraction and brilliance.
A surround of twenty-six lustrous creamy white pearls (assumed natural but untested) about 3 mm each is interspersed with thirteen (13) glittering rose cut accent diamonds all in pinched collet settings of rose gold.
Measurements: 1-1/8 inches (2.8 cm) in length by 1-1/4 inches (3.2 cm) in width. Weight of 10.0 grams (6.4 dwt).
Condition: Excellent; later safety clasp and base; very light wear to the amethyst.
Date: Circa 1820
Note: All gemstone weights are approximate as the stones have not been removed in order to preserve the integrity of the setting.