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Antique French Pink Paste & Enamel Bracelet


The history of the decorative technique of enameling is fascinating and the jewelers during the Renaissance had a particular love of incorporating small white enamel dots onto the surface of black enamel. This was reintroduced during the 19th century Renaissance revival in the style known as “Holbeinesque” and through the work of the Italian master Carlo Giuliano.

The French utilized the technique as well and often paired pink gems with the enamel. Here we have an example of that work in the form of a bracelet with a centered large six-petal flower cluster and two rows of petal shaped “links”. Additional pink pastes have been placed between the petals of the flowerhead.

The bracelet is quite scarce as the edges of each petal have been outlined with white dotted black enamel that enclose three foiled pink pastes of graduated size set closed back in silver and silver gilt. This demarcation has a tendency to bring a visual life to jewelry when combined with a backdrop of color.

+ Measurements, Condition & More

Measurements: 7-3/8 inches (18.6 cm) in length by 1-3/4 inches (4.4 cm) in width. Weight of 37.4 grams (24.1 dwt).

Hallmarks: French hallmarks of the eagle's head; another indistinct mark.

Condition: Good; 4 pastes replaced; one bezel split but secure; general medium wear as expected; some variation in color of the pastes due to age of foiling; enamel is very good.

Date & Origin: Circa 1880 and is French in origin.

Overall Scale: Large

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