Exotica Extraordinaire: Georgian Enamel Gold Bracelet
Breathtaking, of course…dramatic, righteously so…certainly this late Georgian bracelet evokes images of the East India Trading Company and the subsequent era of British Raj. The distinctive motif reflects the relationship between the exotic land of India and the centuries old British fascination with her intrigue through the decidedly Western (please read British) interpretation.
Georgian yellow gold of a lush 18k forms the basis for a series of panels ornamented with superb polychromatic enamel alternating with magnificent panels of gold wire work and applied cannetille. Appointments of natural turquoise cabochons of small flower forms with rose cut diamond centers add to the depth and beauty of the gold panels. Atop the large central enameled panel rests one larger oval cabochon dressed with a surround of rose cut diamonds. Links of open work gold ovals alternate with textured rings and weave a magical mesh of glittering gold. A hidden tongue and groove clasp secures the bracelet.
Included is the original period shaped box of gold-tooled red leather with cream colored silk and velvet lining which was fabricated specifically for this jewel. Hinged, the box is secured with a two-piece catch.
Measurements: 7-3/16 inches (18.2 cm) in length not including bale by 1-15/16 inches (4.8 cm) at the widest by ½ of an inch (1.3 cm) at the highest. This antique bracelet has a weight of 45.2 grams (29.1 dwt).
Condition of Bracelet: Very good; top is superb; a few of the panels on the reverse have been reinforced and show a bit of silver solder in crevices; one panel has a tad bit of silver patina and solder. None of this can be seen from the front.
Condition of Box: In remarkable shape for its age with light wear and scuffing commensurate with use; one hinge deficient; silk and velvet linings remain fine; light wear and indents where the bracelet is situated.
Date & Condition: Circa 1820 and is most likely English in origin.
Overall Scale: Large
Historical Notes: From the late 16th century onward Great Britain had ties with India through private commercial ventures and fortified trading posts. The 18th century saw what may be termed a “takeover” by the East India Trading Company who claimed a monopoly of the East Indian trade in spices, cotton, silk and other goods. Gradually becoming more and more involved in the politics of India where it acted as the chief agent of British imperialism, the Company had a decreasing voice which segued into the British government assuming direct control in the 19th century.
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