Regal Art Deco Paste Brooch
Coco Chanel was its queen; Cartier its king—of Art Deco design. Chanel wore jabots which are 17th century neck cloths or ruffles for the front of a shirt. Cartier introduced the jabot pin as “new jewelry”. ‘Twas a match made in heaven. Well...post World War I France at least.
Often worn on a cloche or other style of hat, the jabot pin was an ornament for the shoulder, the bosom or even to adorn a purse. It is a type of brooch with a central pin that joins two ornamental terminals, one at each end of the stem. One of these terminals has a mechanism allowing for it to be removed, thereby enabling the pointed end to pass through the fabric to attach the piece.
Rendered in cool as ice silver, this Art Deco pin recalls the airy marble palaces of India teeming with the turbaned and jeweled Maharajah's and his coterie of veiled wives awash in silks and saris. Emeralds were a trademark of the Indian jeweler, often carved and shaped as this look-alike. Exotic motifs were the order of the day during the Art Deco period - with the Ballet Russes, Egypt-mania and all manner of far flung influences.
An orb of glass has been fabricated in a crackle style to resemble a natural carved emerald. Bejeweled bands of clear white pastes encircle each end of the emerald green sphere accented with a finial and base of ruby red paste. The removable silver terminal is in the shape of a half orb accented by arch-like curves of mille grain design which house pairs of clear pastes banded by a collar set with gems of clear paste.
Measurements: 2-5/8 inches (6.6 cm) in length by 5/8 of an inch (1.5 cm) at the widest. This Art Deco brooch has a weight of 10.7 grams (6.9 dwt).
Date: Circa 1925
Overall Scale: Long and Medium to Large.
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