Sinuous Mystery: Black Opal Art Nouveau Ring

The term “black opal” is somewhat misleading as the opal is not 'black' in color but has a very dark base body color which enhances the brilliance of the diffracted colors. It can range from jet black to dark grayish-blue or deep brown.

This ring is a superb illustration of the Art Nouveau style. The free-flowing asymmetrical lines evoke a dream-like simplicity using 18k yellow gold. Set with a single oval shaped cabochon black opal of about 1.3 carats—a most mysterious color shifting gem of deep ocean blue marked by vivid flashes of a lighter blue. It creates a sensual and fantastical poetry with a brilliant play of colors and its flamboyant use of natural imagery of the female form reminiscent of the work of Georges Flamand. This artist has created an impasto of deep, textural three-dimensional gold work with an indelible motif of sinuous female imagery in an august piece of period jewelry.

Condition: Excellent

Hallmarks: Paris, France discharge (export) mark of eagle's head facing right (used after 1847); initials “MA”, most likely the maker's mark, possibly of Mathilde Augé.

Measurements: ½ of an inch (1.3 cm) on the finger north to south. Opal is 7 mm by 10 mm. This antique ring has a substantial weight of 12.5 grams. Currently a size US 7 (UK N-1/2; Euro 17.5, 55 mm). We do not recommend sizing up given design is in 360 degrees. It could be made smaller using inserts or sizing orbs

Date & Origin: Circa 1890 and is French in origin.

Note: All gemstone weights are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.