Victorian Classicism in a Gold Necklace

The 1860s were the decade of fringe for all types of jewelry. Designers added fringe to earrings, chains and brooches as well as for necklaces such as this example. In addition, we see the crafting of entire pieces using only the sensuous form itself.

Here we see superb and meticulous construction in the realm of the work of those great Italian jewelers Castellani, Giuliano and Melillo. Classical revival or archaeological style works were all the rage during the mid-19th century.

An exquisite 18k yellow gold flexible snake chain is paired with a fringe of thirty-seven perfectly graduated hollow teardrops. Cast rather than worked, please note the tiny pin holes centered at the base and on the top reverse of each pendant drop. These air holes are used to prevent the expansion of trapped air which would cause the cast hollow element to explode.

As the necklace seamlessly lies across the collarbone, the color of the richest radiant gold gives rise to classical images of women of antiquity cloaked in a simple peplos or chiton draped with jewels of gold. A barrel clasp secures the necklace. For similar forms of the fringe necklace, please see pages 112 to 113 in “Necklaces from Antiquity to the Present" by Mascetti and Triossi.

Condition: Excellent to mint with two minute dents. One is on the front bottom of the second largest drop; the other, on the reverse, is slightly larger. Given the small size of the visible front indent and its minimal visual impression, we chose to leave as is. If desired our jewelers can restore this. Please see photo 4 for front tiny indention and photo 9 for back indention.

Measurements: Chain is just shy of 16 inches (40.3 cm) in length by less than 1/8 of an inch (0.3 cm) in width. Largest drop is more than 1 inch (1.6 cm) in length by ¼ of an inch (0.6 cm) at the widest. This antique necklace has a weight of 18.5 grams.

Date: Circa 1860