Antique Georgian Amethyst Parure
The parure of matching set of jewelry was fashionable from the 18th century through to the earlier part of the 19th. Typically included were necklace, bracelet(s), pendant earrings and a pendant. Larger sets could include buttons, hair ornaments, buckles and more.
The Three Graces is very pleased to present a full parure of natural Siberian Russian amethyst set into high carat yellow gold. Characteristically Georgian with closed backed and foil settings, oval faceted amethyst have been encased in sculptural cups of gold with a convex shaped reverse. Granulation, in groups of one and three alternating, dot the rim of all the gemstones.
Gem Stones: The necklace has twenty-two (22) oval faceted gems ranging in size from 15 mm by 17 mm to 7 mm by 7 mm. The pendant displays ten (10) amethyst from 9 mm by 12 mm to 6 mm by 7 mm. Each of the earrings has ten (10) stones ranging in size from 5 mm by 7 mm to 4 mm by 5 mm. Twelve (12) gemstones, averaging 8 mm by 9 mm are in each of the two bracelets. In all, seventy-six (76) natural Siberian amethyst grace the parure. Carat weight cannot be determined, as the depth of the gems is unknown. None has been removed to protect the integrity of the settings.
The pendant has a detachable gem set bale with an integrated loop that enables it to be worn separately or together with the drop suspended from the central necklace. In addition, the pendant can be worn as a brooch. The pair of matching bracelets in rivière style is worn one on each wrist.
The set is in an antique maroon red leather box lined in cream silk which may be original or may have been replaced.
Similar examples of full parures of the same time period can be found in “Georgian Jewellery” by Dawes & Collings. Comparable style rivières and necklaces are on page 74, 75 and 113 of the same book. Throughout the chapter entitled, "Night" are variations of parures from the early 19th century. In addition "Understanding Jewelry" by Bennett & Mascetti has a garnet parure of this era on page 83.
Condition: Excellent. All the gems are hand cut with typical variation in size and shape; some variation to color of the amethysts due to properties of age and foiling; one bracelet has three stones that read paler and more lavender. Brooch clasp replaced with safety probably in the 19th century and hallmarked 14k. One earring has three missing granulations on one rim of a stone—could be replaced but we recommend leaving it as is.
Box is in good condition; some scratching, edge loss and wear; several losses to the surface, especially on underside and at “C” hinges.
Measurements: Necklace is 15-1/2 inches (39.4 cm) in length and more than 3/4 of an inch (2 cm) at the widest. Necklace has a weight of 49.8 grams. Pendant is more than 2-1/8 inches (5.5 cm) in length and is just shy of 1-5/8 inches (4.1 cm) in width. Pendant weighs 12.6 grams. Earrings measure 1-3/4 inches (4.4 cm) in length by less than 1-1/8 inches (2.7 cm). The pair has a weight of 12.6 grams. Each bracelet is 7-3/4 inches (19.7 cm) in length and just shy of ½ of an inch (1.2 cm) in width and weighs 19.1 grams.
Date & Origin: Circa 1810 – 1820; most likely English in origin.
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