Retro Deluxe: Ruby Diamond Buckle Bracelet

Glamour and luxury in jewelry did not begin with the Edwardian era nor did it end with Art Deco. The real stars of Hollywood during the 1940s and 1950s were the be-jeweled accessories that those glamour gals wore.

Links of 14k rose gold form a flexible buckle bracelet adjustable to fit any wrist using an ingenious two-part hinged clasp mechanism. Please refer to photo to see how the clasp works. The buckle is encrusted with nineteen (19) brilliant and mixed cut pave diamonds set in platinum. These stones are about .02 to .03 carats apiece, bringing the total estimated diamond weight to .40 carats. The strap end is ornamented with nine (9) vivid red-pink square cut rubies set into gold with three additional gems encrusting the tongue of the buckle.

An almost exact bracelet was manufactured and then sold by the House of Cartier. We can assume that this piece was also fabricated by the same maker.

Condition: Excellent

Hallmarks: 14k and platinum.

Measurements: More than 8-1/4 inches (21 cm) in length, the bracelet has a weight of 51.7 grams. The band itself is ¾ of an inch (1.9 cm) in width; the buckle is more than 1-1/8 inches (2.9 cm) wide.

Date & Origin: Circa 1945; American in origin.

Note: All gemstone weights are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.

Historical Note: The buckle motif has covered several centuries of jewelry design. The crest of its popularity was during the Victorian era when it was frequently bestowed as an acclamation of friendship or as a token of love. The design also reflected the unity between two people. Revived toward the end of the Art Deco period and into the next several decades, the motif is still employed today.