Masterpiece in Enamel - Renaissance Revival Moilliet Watch
Moilliet is the surname of a family of master watchmakers dating to circa 1790. This is according to the records of the Musée de l'Horlogerie et de l'Emaillerie (Museum of Watchmaking and Enameling) located in Geneva, Switzerland. Moreover, the archives indicate that the family crafted beautiful enameled watches.
Revivals of earlier styles of jewelry were at the forefront of fashion during the mid 19th century. Here we have a masterpiece of Renaissance revival rendered in enamel and a stunning example of the craft of the family Moilliet. With a base of 18k yellow gold, the design is a near perfect echoing of European Renaissance design and motifs. Surrounding a centered lyre form, swans and peacocks, gryphons and birds all interact with flowing lines and trails of scroll forms.
Each design has been cut or etched out by hand out of the 18k gold to create low lying areas. Enamel is placed into each of the sections and fired. The un-carved portions of the original surface remain visible as a frame for the enamel designs. This process is known as "champlevé" enamel.
The glass covered white enamel dial has large Roman numerals within lovely scalloped borders. Separate minute designations are marked on the outermost band around the hour numbers.
The keyhole for winding is on the interior of the watch case. That interior surface is engraved with the following: on the top is "echappement cylinder," (cylinder escapement); underneath is "quatre trous en rubis" (four ruby jewels); central in beautiful script is “Aiguilles Moilliet” with a gear jewel in the middle; and on the bottom is “A Geneve N. 26097” (made in Geneva model number 26097). The interior of the cover is also inscribed “26097”.
Condition: The case is very good to excellent. Minute amount of enamel loss when viewed under magnification. Even the enamel on the watch top ring is still intact. The watch itself is intact and fine. The watch key is missing. All of the works of the watch appear to be intact and undisturbed.
Measurements: More than 1-1/2 inches (4.3 cm) in diameter and just shy pf 3/8 of an inch (0.8 cm) in thickness. Chain is 51 inches (129.5 cm) in total length. Together watch and chain weigh 59.8 grams.
Date & Origin: Circa 1840 - 1850. Swiss in origin.
Historical Notes: The jewelry and small objects of the Renaissance were essentially about the art of the enameler. Precious gems were accorded far less importance than was the enameling... Figural, allegorical, phantasmagorical, religious, most jewelry related to these types of leitmotifs. Intricate patterning of just this sort (often in covers or in circular form) can be seen on color plate 110 or planche XV b in “Joyaux Renaissance of the Gallerie” by J. Kugel.
Similar to work dating around the last quarter of the 16th century out of Augsberg, Germany (often seen from the master jewelers of Huguenot origins), this light stylized yet ornate motifs of similar style can also be seen on pages 177 - 180 in “Renaissance Jewelry” by Yvonne Hackenbroch.
