Soft Gaze: French Antique Portrait Ring
The artists and artisans of the late 18th and early 19th century rejected the ostentation of the rococo era and focused on a revival of classical principals. Typical for this period is the use of the forms of classical antiquity—often interpreted through the simple oval or ovoid shape of a ring with an austere and plain rounded shank, convex top and curved glass. In addition, characteristic of this time frame is the application of diamonds foiled and set closed back and the use of rose gold.
This large oval shaped ring, although crafted around 1840, has been fabricated very much in the style of 1790. However, one clue to dating is the more romanticized rendering of the portrait miniature. An additional piece of evidence is the guarantee mark of the eagle’s head facing right—in use after 1838 until 1847.
Set into 18k rose gold, the ivory portrait is surrounded with a border of twenty-eight (28) rose cut diamonds with barely three facets and shimmering as though mica. It depicts a female, her head covered in a gray powdered wig and brightly colored bonnet; dressed in a ruffled dress, although seated toward the left, she is displayed with her head shifted and gazing toward the right. The shoulders of the simple shank gradually descend into a slim band of silk-like antique rose gold.
Condition: Very good; some light surface wear to the glass; a tad bit of patina and surface wear to the gold; diamonds show as dark grey but glint in the light due to the thin cut and the type of setting. The miniature and all the diamonds appear fine.
Hallmarks: French hallmarks; eagle’s head facing right and another illegible mark.
Measurements: Less than 7/8 of an inch (2.1 cm) at the widest and has a weight of 4.8 grams. Currently is a size US 6 (British L-1/2; Euro 16.50 - 16.75, 52.5 mm). Please inquire as to sizing.
Date & Origin: Circa 1840; French in origin.
Important: This ring should not be exposed to any liquids, water, cleaning products or harsh chemicals due to the foil backed gems and miniature portrait.
