Marcus & Co Diamond Pearl Edwardian Pendant
In its original box, we present a superb Edwardian garland style diamond and baroque pearl pendant brooch. Signed, “Marcus & Co. Circa 1905”, the pendant consists of a removable top bale with diamonds and a central panel of leaves and curves and Greek key motifs which surround a fantastic old European cut central diamond of approximately .86 carats. Each side supports a leaf form and diamond drop; swaying from the center is a garland of leaves suspending a luminous noble teardrop-shaped baroque pearl (untested).
On the reverse the brooch is signed (see photos) and sports a removable fitting which can be screwed into the frame to wear the piece as a brooch or removed when worn as a pendant. The mount is platinum with yellow gold for the pin clasp, hinge and stem. Superb metal-smithing and azuring—one look at the reverse reveals the artistry.
The jewel contains 105 diamonds in all with estimated sizes as follows:
1 old Euro at .15 carats
7 old Euros at .07 carats
2 old Euros at .05 carats
5 old Euros at .03 carats
86 old mine cuts at .01 each
1 single cut = .02
2 old mine cuts = .01
1 old Euro at .86 carats.
Total estimated diamond weight is 2.65. Central stone is J-K color and VSI-VVS. The other stones range H-J in color.
Condition: Near Mint. Two small areas of oxidation on the platinum mount.
Measurements: 2-3/8 inches (6.2 cm) in length including top bale; 1-7/8 inches (3.7 cm) in width.
Date: Circa 1905
Box - The box has “Marcus & Co” and “45th Street, New York” printed in gold. The rest is worn. It is olive green leather and has a gold tooled trim. The interior is of black velvet and silk. Condition is fair to good with some scratching to the top lid and to the bottom. Interior is very good with some wear to the gold letters. Depressions are evident where the pendant has been placed; there are two holes on each side for the brooch mount.
Marcus & Co. - There is not a great deal known about the firm but they specialized in British influenced Arts and Crafts style as well as French influenced enamel and fine diamond jewelry of the early 20th century. They had a shop along Madison Avenue along with their rivals Tiffany & Co. & Black, Starr and Frost. Working from approximately 1880 to 1940, they created a wide variety of exemplary jewels.
In the book, "Warman's Jewelry" by Christie Romero, see an example on page 110 of their gold and enamel work sold in 2001 at Christies for over $30,000. Many noteworthy examples of their work are shown in the book, "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" by Judith Price".
Note: All diamond weights and gradings are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.
