Antique Ruby Georgian Girandole Pendant

The girandole is a form that emerged in force in the late 17th century and became one of the crowning glories of the 18th century jeweler’s art. Although this configuration was used mostly for earrings it was also evident in the design of stomacher brooches and pendants. The classic girandole shape consisted of a large round gem surmount or a decorative motif, such as a bow from which three drops (usually pear-shaped) were suspended. Often jewel-encrusted, they were elaborate and very heavy.

Having begun as a pair of late 18th century earrings, the sole surviving mate now triumphs life as a girandole pendant. Marvelously versatile 18th century style enables the removal of the ruby and rose cut diamond encrusted surmount via a hook on the reverse. Note the floral motif and stylized bow also set with rose cut diamonds and rubies. All of the gems are foil backed and set into unusual valleys of silver. The rubies are mounted with crimped collet settings. Their color is lush with vivid pinks that today are almost unknown in the gem world. Modern mines do not often bring up the safe quality of gems we see in antique jewelry. The reverse of the pendant displays the heavy sculptural silver work back typical of this era with its sensual and bulbous construction.

Measures 2-1/2 inches (6.3 cm) in length without later date top “O” fitting by 1-5/8 inches (4.2 cm) in width. Has a weight of 18.9 grams. In good condition with general medium wear as commensurate with age and use. Right bottom ruby is quite chipped; two small diamonds replaced; a few diamonds have a tiny crevice between the stone and silver mount. Piece has a rich heavy patina. Dates to circa 1780.