Retropolitian: Sophisticated Aquamarine & Ruby Ring
The style trend for ring design following the Art Deco era was that of bold and chunky. Typically stones were monumental in size and colorful and reflected not only the lack of the precious gems but the shifting roles of women in society. We commonly find retro rings of this type referred to as “cocktail jewelry” worn during those infamous cocktail hours. It was less about exceptional gems, and more about the "statement"; this continued well into the 1950s.
Mounted in a distinctively vaulted position just shy of 5/8 of an inch (1.5 cm) is a superb aquamarine. This gem was one of the most popular during this time span and is set into 14k rose gold, one of the preferred colors of gold that regained its popularity with the scarcity of platinum (used for the war effort). The 2.4 cm by 1.9 cm (1 inch by ¾ of an inch) step or trap cut imposing 46 carat aquamarine is set between three-dimensional fluted shoulders decorated with eight (8) natural rubies.
Contrasting in color, the rubies are 2 mm each and have a weight of about .06 carats apiece which brings the total carat weight to more than .45 carats. The stone is faceted in a step-cut on the sides and below as it sits upon an impressively designed open pierced gallery of rose gold.
Currently a size US 5-1/4 (British J-1/2; Euro 15.75, 50 mm). Sizing orbs on the inside of ring; if removed, size will increase. If desired, we can resize the ring.
Condition: In very good condition; light to medium wear to the gold; evidence of resizing seen with a loupe.
Date & Origin: Circa 1935 – 1945.