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Georgian Revival: 19th Century Aquamarine & Diamond Garland Choker

Item 10436

The garland style necklace made its debut into the world of jewelry during the late 18th century. Having had a major impact with its grandeur, this type of necklace re-emerged in revival design during the late 19th and early 20th century.

Well suited to a grand soiree, a pair of diamond-studded ribbons punctuated by small rectangular cut aquamarines and natural pearls (untested) is interpreted as entwined garlands of leaves and flowers. Table cut aquamarines (ranging in size from 12.5 mm by 15.3 mm to about 3 mm by 4 mm) have a double facet and are set deep within a gold-topped silver bezel. Colors vary from very deep green blue to blue; many are highly included yet still present with great depth. Each is set foiled and closed back. The gems are brilliant and deep in color; the creamy pearls all intact.

The garlands are silver with gold washed backs. One of the ribbons presents as a series of two leaves and a flower interspersed with tiny diamond; the other is a pearl between series of rose cut diamonds and an aquamarine. Size and shape slightly vary as each part is crafted by hand.

The reverse is chased and engraved with intricate carvings depicting floral forms and geometrics. The main aquamarines have rounded and bulbous backs and are balanced with the more planar backs of the garland. Setting a most elegant look, the choker gently graces the neck.

Accompanying the choker is a tooled leather box of deep maroon embossed with gold and a cream colored silk interior. The box closes on one side with a clasp; the other does not clasp. On the bottom is an old label.

Condition: Good; some silver solder reinforcements; a few of the tiniest diamonds replaced; a few smaller aquamarines also appear replaced. For a more detailed condition, please email us. The not original box is fair to good with the top silk deteriorating; all leather quite fine, one tiny flap lifted and repaired; overall wear as commensurate with age and use.

Hallmarks: French eagle’s head on clasp.

Measurements: 17-1/4 inches (43.8 cm) in total length and has a weight of 46.5 grams (29.9 dwt). Largest aquamarine measures ½ of an inch (1.2 cm) by 5/8 of an inch (1.3 cm).

Date & Origin: Late 19th century and is French in origin.

Note: All gem weights are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.