Ruby Diamond Flower Spray Brooch
For centuries posies and corsages were worn on the bodice. Moreover these jewelers were clever enough to turn leaf and stem into precious metals and gems. It was during the Romantic period of the early and mid 19th century that a revival of floral motifs took hold. Here is a resplendent brooch set with a natural ruby, rose cut diamonds and larger mine cut diamonds.
First, this natural oval faceted ruby glistens with coloration of fuchsia pink. It measures 4.5 mm by 5.5 cm high and weighs approximately .55 carats. This is set amidst a flurry of diamonds. Forty-one (41) warm and shimmery diamonds dot the surface of the leaves and stem of each flower. The larger are old mine cuts and the smaller sizes are all rose cuts. The diamonds range in size from an accent diamond of .01 carats up to about .15 of a carat. Total estimated diamond weight is 1.25 carats. Colors have quite a range from an L color up to a G. (Remember all weights and colors are approximate as no stones were removed for accurate weight and color grading).
The metal is silver (the only white metal used at that time) with 18k gold pin hinge, C clasp and pin stem and a base beneath the silver of 18k gold. The construction is substantial and all stones are set in cut down silver setting or tipped settings with the ruby in a gold claw mount. Each stone is open backed except on the lower branch of the flower where they are closed backed. Worn on a collar or on the shoulder - never goes out of style.
Measurements: 2-1/8 inches (5.4 cm) in length by 1-1/16 inches (2.6 cm) in width. Weighs 10.7 grams (6.8 dwt).
Condition: Very good; one area of tiny scratches on leaf stem and one bead of a later restoration both visible with a loupe. Some indentations on pin stem and light wear, otherwise excellent. All stones appear original and fine; one small diamonds on stem reads a bit more golden. Patina on the silver has been left untouched for now but could be polished out if desired.
Hallmarks: "A" on pin stem and another indiscernible mark.
Date: Circa 1850.
Note: All diamond weights and color grades are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.
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